Can Horses Eat Pears? Everything You Need to Know! Read More »
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]]>Horses simply graze on grass, seed, or shrubs in the wild. As such, most owners feed their horses a diet primarily of grass or hay. However, some people choose to include other foods at feeding time, which is perfectly acceptable. Horses can benefit from the introduction of extra nutrients in their diet, which they can get from fruits and vegetables. One of the fruits commonly fed to horses is pears.
Both veterinarians and equine nutritionists conclude that pears are safe to feed your horse, and they are an excellent snack between meals. As such, we’ve developed this helpful guide that covers all the essential information you need to know about feeding pears to your horse.
Not only are pears delicious, but they are also rich in fiber and antioxidants. In fact, pears offer a load of health benefits. However, horses should only consume about one to two pounds of pears per day, and you need to be careful that your horse doesn’t accidentally ingest too many pear seeds.
To prepare pears for your horse, start by washing them. Then remove both the stem and the seeds. Next, cut the fruit in small chunks and feed these to your horse one by one. Pieces of pear can pose a choking hazard for horses with a tendency to gulp their food.
Alternatively, you can cut the pears up and cook them to make them easier to eat. In contrast to raw pears, these can be softer and mushier, making them easier to swallow. Plus, they’re an excellent option for horses with teeth issues. Allow the pears to cool before feeding them to your horse; they should be served completely cold.
The reason you want to be careful that your horse doesn’t eat pear seeds is that they contain an ingredient called amygdalin. The chemical compound is there to protect the fruit. However, when amygdalin is crushed and ingested, it turns into hydrogen cyanide. Apples, peaches, and apricots all have seeds that contain this chemical.
Hydrogen cyanide is highly toxic when inside the body as it robs your cells of oxygen. Ingesting hydrogen cyanide in a high concentration is lethal to humans and animals. Note that around 0.2-1.6 mg of cyanide per pound of body weight can cause cyanide poisoning. For reference, one gram of apple seeds is estimated to consist of 1-4 mg of amygdalin, resulting in around 0.06-0.24 mg of cyanide in the body. The best way to prevent any cyanide poisoning is to chop the pears and remove the seeds you find in there before feeding your horse.
Now that you’ve learned how to feed pears to your horse let’s see what health benefits your horse may reap from eating it.
Fiber is an essential part of any diet. Not only does it regulate bowel movements and prevent constipation, but it also feeds healthy gut bacteria. As a result, your horse could have improved immunity and may seem to age gracefully.
Pears are also rich in another form of soluble fiber called pectin. It is also known as a polysaccharide, which means indigestible sugars. It reduces cholesterol and blood fat by navigating and binding with cholesterol in the digestive tract, thus reducing the risk of heart disease in horses. In addition, it reduces the risk of stomach ulcers by forming a protective layer over the stomach lining. Finally, it may also help to prevent your horse from becoming overweight.
Pears are also rich in vitamin C, E, and B6. Each of these benefits the health of horses in many different ways.
Vitamin E, for instance, maintains the neuromuscular functions of horses. In addition, vitamin C is an antioxidant that protects the cells from free radicals. Vitamin B6 regulates metabolism and controls your horse’s blood sugar levels.
Pears are among the fruits with high water content, like watermelons, and contain over 80% water, so they are perfect as a refreshing and hydrating snack for your horse.
As pears contain vitamin C, they can help fight inflammation. Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that plays a vital role in a horse’s overall health. Constant inflammation may lead to many diseases and illnesses, so pears are a potential effective booster for the horse’s immunity.
No. Like apples and pears, other fruits and vegetables contain poisonous seeds or might be downright toxic.
Before giving food to your horse, you must know these to prevent causing any major digestive issues. For example, you should never give your horse any fruit or vegetable from the nightshade family of plants. Nightshade plants consist of many foods, such as tomatoes, potatoes, aubergines, peppers, and various other plants in this category. These are toxic to horses because they contain small amounts of alkaloids. The one in nightshade is known as solanine. This alkaloid acts as an insecticide in the plant’s growth stages and can cause nausea or diarrhea when ingested.
Other foods to avoid giving to your horse are dairy products, cauliflower, bread, cabbage, avocado, as well as any foods you are suspicious of. Overall, it is better to avoid feeding your horse anything you are not entirely informed about. Horses are pretty low-maintenance when it comes to food and can graze on grass and hay all day long!
Your horse might enjoy pears as a tasty treat and could even gain some health benefits from all the nutrients they offer. However, they should eat pears in a limited quantity minus the seeds that can lead to potential poisoning. The best thing you can do as an owner of a horse is to ensure your horse is adequately fed and given sufficient water to stay hydrated. Horses are energetic creatures and love to play with their human companions. Choose their snacks wisely to keep your horse healthy and happy.
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]]>How Long Can a Horse Go Without Water? Read More »
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]]>You may be wondering, “How long can a horse go without water?” “How frequently do I need to feed it?” “What will be the expenses in terms of money and time?” Caring for a horse can be somewhat overwhelming since there are so many things to consider, like grooming, feeding, and keeping it in tiptop condition.
However, as we all are aware, the significance of several things outweighs the relevance of others. If you ask any well-informed horse keeper what the most critical elements are when it comes to horses, the response will be water and food. Water plays a crucial role in providing your horse with sufficient nutrition and ensuring it stays hydrated.
A horse, like people, prefers cool freshwater throughout the summer months. However, excessively cold or semi-frozen water can cause health issues during the colder winter months. Throughout the winter, people prefer a cup of strong hot tea, espresso, or chocolate to warm themselves up from the inside.
Horse caretakers found that boiling their horses’ drinking water throughout the winter helps them drink more water. Furthermore, a typical horse will consume five to ten gallons of fresh water each day. Not all horses need or drink equal amounts of water, just like humans.
So, here is the answer to the question that many horse keepers are looking for.
Surprisingly, a horse can survive for at least a month or nearly a month without eating. However, this does not apply to water. A horse cannot survive without water for longer than five days. Once a horse goes without any water for two days, signs of colic set in, which will quickly progress to lethargy, and ultimately dehydration.
Dehydration is directly linked to a horse’s physical condition. For horses to be physically fit, they need to get enough exercise, be well-fed, and stay hydrated. Being deprived of water can lead to severe health issues that you can avoid by ensuring access to fresh water every day.
Let us look at some of the vital factors of a horse’s mechanism:
The elements mentioned above are what competent horse caretakers should be on the lookout for, and if they suspect their horses might be dehydrated, they must address the issue swiftly. That is why horse owners must be able to identify whether a horse is dehydrated or not.
Taking a blood sample is by far the most accurate approach to assess dehydration. Your vet may also order a urine test. You may also identify symptoms of dehydration on your horse through other techniques. However, urine tests and blood samples are the most reliable methods.
When a horse’s skin becomes dehydrated, it loses flexibility. The pinch check is the simplest way to assess for indications of dehydration in your animal. Pinch up a skin fold on the horse’s spine, towards the bottom of his neck, or on his lower torso. Hold it for three seconds before releasing it.
If your horse is dehydrated, the skin will remain raised in a hump for ten to fifteen seconds, indicating the intensity of the dehydration. If the horse seems dehydrated, seek veterinary attention right away.
The respiration rate check is a quick and simple check. An average horse’s breathing speed ranges from eight to twelve breaths in a minute. When a horse is dehydrated, he will take short and shallow breaths. It is because his system tries to shift essential resources from one organ to another to return a sense of normality.
The resting heart rate of an average horse is between thirty-six and forty-two beats per minute. Monitor your horse’s heartbeat for sixty seconds for the best results. A resting heart rate higher than sixty beats per minute may indicate dehydration.
Another easy test is to softly push and relax your horse’s gum around his upper teeth. The mucosal tissue should be bright and wet. Obnoxiously red gums, as well as dry eyes, might signal that the horse is transferring water from those areas to other areas in the body. A longer replenishment time entails a greater risk of dehydration.
Dehydration may occur in a horse that generates dark urine or has not produced pee for a lengthy period.
Water is a highly crucial element for a living body, whether it is a horse, human, or any other living being. Because a horse’s body comprises mostly water, being devoid of nutrition but given drinking water can keep him alive for twenty to twenty-five nights.
On the other hand, a horse that does not have access to fresh water can only last three or six nights. After two days without water, a horse might struggle to eat and develop indications of colic and other hazardous diseases, which is the last thing you want.
Now that you know how much water a horse needs, you can make sure that your animal is well cared for and remains in excellent condition.
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]]>How Do Wild Horses Trim Their Hooves? Read More »
The post How Do Wild Horses Trim Their Hooves? appeared first on .
]]>That is not the case for wild horses. Wild horses trim their hooves in two simple ways, and these do not include a visit to the farrier. In this article, we take a deeper look at how wild horses trim their hooves. Read on to find out what they are.
Wild horses (or feral ones, like American mustangs) naturally wear down the growth of their hooves, very different from the methods used for domesticated horses.
Although wild horses do not need to be groomed like domesticated horses, they somehow still have excellent hoof growth. Domesticated horses are usually taken on trail rides and long walks by their owners, but wild horses engage in more extended periods of exercise. They sometimes have to gallop through different terrains for 20 miles or more to get to their grazing site. This extended form of exercise helps them trim their overgrown hooves, which helps to reduce injuries.
Domestic horses live in greater comfort. Their stables usually have cobblestone floors, and their owners spread hay on the ground, so they only have to go over rocky terrains during trail rides.
On the other hand, wild horses have to run through rocky terrains and abrasive paths to get to their food source. Such is the nature of their natural habitat. Going through these kinds of plains helps wild horses trim their hooves effectively. In the long run, this prevents casualties caused by overgrown hooves.
Below, we have outlined two factors that affect the growth of horses’ hooves.
Domestic horses are bred for different characteristics, such as pedigree, which can result in weaker hooves that require constant care.
Horses born with severe faults in their legs or feet are less likely to reproduce. Therefore, conformational flaws that would negatively affect overall survival are weeded from the gene pool over time.
Horses can suffer significantly in the wild if something goes wrong with their hooves, such as an injury or impairment. They may not keep up with the herd, making it difficult to walk to find food, causing an unfortunate outcome.
Over time, wild horses adapt to their living environment, and with stronger hooves, they have a better chance of survival.
Horses’ environments also affect the growth of their hooves. The distance covered by horses and the kind of plains that horses travel affect the type of hooves they will develop. Wild horses that live in environments with hard ground develop different hoof types from horses that live in environments with softer terrain.
Horses that live on softer terrain have hooves that grow faster than they wear out, resulting in flared hooves that can cause discomfort.
On the other hand, wild horses that live on hard grounds have short and rounded hooves. This hoof type is also called the mustang roll, and it usually wears down around the base, leaving the front of the hoof short and round.
Unlike the flared hooves, the mustang roll is excellent for wild horses as it does not chip or crack easily. The mustang roll also reduces any possible weight that might carry, redirecting it away from the tendons and coffin bones in their leg.
Although horses’ hooves seem sturdy, they can experience associated health problems.
Domestic horses are prone to severe laminitis cases due to complications that arise due to improper trimming. The horses have to be put down in such cases since they may become lame and experience severe pain.
These horses tend to have generally weaker hooves than wild horses, resulting from their more conducive environments and extended stay in stables. Unlike wild horses, they cannot travel long distances and need help trimming their hooves.
Although wild horses have naturally healthier hooves, they can still experience problems. It is not uncommon for wild horses to experience health issues such as laminitis, which happens due to the extended time that they spend in their environment. However, through adaptation, they can survive these ailments.
There are some frequently asked questions that you might have about horses’ hooves, and we have answered them in the next section.
Yes, wild horses can be dangerous if they feel threatened. They can be likened to deers and other herbivores roaming freely. Their first instinct is to evade when they feel threatened.
No, it doesn’t hurt when we trim horses’ hooves because the hoof wall is unresponsive. Horses do not have blood vessels and tissues in their hooves, and their hooves are similar to human fingernails.
The same way you cut your fingernails without pain, horses don’t feel pain when they have their hooves trimmed. Same as your fingernails, horses’ hooves are made of keratin. However, complications may arise if hooves are not trimmed the right way. Some of these complications include flaring, frog atrophy, and inflamed joints.
In a worst-case scenario, laminitis might occur, and the horse would have to be put down.
Although horse hooves are made of keratin that can be easily trimmed off, they play an important protective role. Horse hooves protect the pedal bones in the lowest part of a horse’s legs. Their primary function is to protect these bones from the impact of shock whenever they are in motion.
Yes, the diet plan you feed your horse directly affects how their hooves grow.
Domesticated horses eat more supplements and additives than wild horses, making their hooves grow faster. The rapid growth increases the visits that are paid to the farrier.
Wild horses, on the other hand, eat mostly grass and water. Their meal plan is more natural, which helps to keep their hooves in good growing condition. Their diet, coupled with the distance they run to get food, keeps the growth of their hooves to the minimum.
No, wild horses do not need horseshoes. Apart from the fact that there are no humans to attach them, horseshoes are unnecessary for wild horses.
However, domesticated horses need horseshoes for protective purposes. Horseshoes prevent the weight of their owners from bearing down on their hooves. So, the weight of their owners would be on the horseshoes, preventing the risk of a broken leg.
No, wild horses do not need humans to trim their hooves. The activities they engage in and the nature of their habitat do that for them.
Humans only trim the hooves of domesticated horses and horses that do not spend much time outdoors, which need more attention to their hooves.
Unlike domesticated horses, which receive proper grooming and care, wild horses trim their hooves themselves.
Wild horses trim their hooves by stomping around on gravelled planes and hard surfaces, and their hoof health is supported by the kind of lifestyle they live in their natural habitat.
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]]>How to Measure Your Saddle: Everything You Need to Know Read More »
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]]>However, there are a few helpful tips by which you can measure a saddle perfectly. To save you some time, below, we have explained how you find the right saddle that looks like it is made for you!
In order to measure a saddle size, there are a few key factors which you should consider. These are;
Firstly, place the saddle in a straight position. Use a measuring tape. Start measuring from the center of the bottom to the front and the middle of the cantle. Usually, adult size saddles about 17 are for adults, and for teenagers, 16 size is a better fit.
Now that you are aware of the seat measurement, let us find out if it is a good fit for you. Balance the saddle correctly on the horse. Place your feet carefully in the stirrups and sit in the middle of the saddle.
At this point, check whether you can fit your hands between where you sit and the back of the saddle. If you can’t, it means this is the right size for you. However, if there is more space than a hand behind you, the seat is probably too big.
A well-fitting flap will fix perfectly with the outline of your leg. Find the part where the stirrup attaches to the saddle. Lift that part, and you will see a portion of metal is used to hold the stirrup in place. Start measuring from the top of the metal down to the edge of the flap.
In order to measure the width of the saddle flap, measure horizontally over the widest portion. Now, flip the saddle over, and you will see two equal panels with a gap in the center. These gaps are called gullets of the saddle. In addition, to measure the gullet size, you will require a clothes hanger. Turn the end of the horse withers into the clothes hanger. Place the hanger right after the withers. Remove the hanger, straighten a measuring tape, and move it across the hanger at least 3 inches below the angle of the withers.
The length between each side of the hanger will be the horse’s gullet width. Ensure you can fit at least two fingers between the saddle and the withers. If you can, it’s probably too tight for your horse.
Another tip to measure the saddle is to look for the last rib in the horse’s rib cage. If the saddle passes the rib, the saddle fits perfectly fine.
Measuring a saddle accurately is important to know in order to check what to rule out or in. Buying a horse saddle is a significant investment. Therefore, you would never want to go wrong with it.
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]]>How to Lunge a Horse in 6 Simple Steps Read More »
The post How to Lunge a Horse in 6 Simple Steps appeared first on .
]]>Lunging is essential for a horse, and apart from just exercising, you can build trust between yourself and the horse. Moreover, the animal may also be well balanced and flexible. In this article, we’ll look at a step-by-step guide on how to lunge a horse. Stick around to learn more.
The following steps will help you lunge your horse effortlessly.
You will require a space of approximately fourteen to fifteen meters for the horse. This will enable it to have sufficient space to trot. Besides, you need to ensure it’s not too much as it can make you feel like you are in an open place, resulting in the horse trying to run away. Therefore, if you can’t access a ring, you may use hay bales to help produce a circle if you don’t have a paddock or corral.
Hold the lunge line depending on the side your horse will be using. If the rein is on the left, ensure the whip is on your right, and the lunge line is on the left. Hold the whip to your left and the line on your right if it operates from the right rein. Also, ensure both the whip and the line are triangular sides, and you be the apex of the formed triangle. The horse will be its base. Ensure you bend your arms at your elbow, and you’re relaxed while standing.
To command a horse to walk, consider using a sound or a word of your choice. However, ensure you are consistent with their use. If you choose to go with a clicking sound to make it walk, you should use that all the time. Consider using different tones for every command and keep the verbal commands low. If you talk continuously, your horse will begin tuning out your voice.
Avoid dragging the lunge line on the ground as the horse moves in the circle. Hold it up and keep the elbows bent and whip pointing at the hocks of the horse. Also, maintain a triangle shape and walk in the same direction as your horse in a smaller circle.
When performing the upward transitions, consider using your voice. For instance, it may range from trot to canter, and you can enhance this by using the whip. For some, you may have to crack the lash, while for others, it’ll just take the whip’s wave. You may have to perfect this by practicing before you try to lunge a horse. As for the downward transition, it may range from trot to stop, canter to walk, walk to stop, or trot to walk. You can try to lower the whip’s tip to the ground.
Asking a horse to stop will mean they should remain in the circle while waiting for you to move to them. However, you may still let them come to you when you call out. With this, you can collect the lineup so it does not get dragged on the ground as your horse proceeds towards you.
There are several things you need to do to make the training more productive. Let’s look at some of the essential practices.
You can switch directions every five minutes. Take note that, at times, the training can be redundant for you and the horse. A change can protect your brain and muscles from fatigue. Consider taking advantage of walking breaks and tack adjustments to change direction; this will prevent you from feeling like starting or stopping every time.
A continuous connection between the horse and yourself is vital for perfect lunging. Though you may come across those who lunge with a slackline with no contact at all, it’s not advised if you’re just starting. The main reason for this is a majority of the horses usually avoid the bending effect of the lunge line’s connection. This can be through falling in the circle and can take a skillful use of a whip and patience to correct it. Remember, when you lunge a horse without contact on the lunge line, you will be training with no bend, which isn’t helpful.
The circle needs to range between fifteen to twenty meters. It needs to be large enough to accommodate your horse. Besides, you can make it bigger by allowing more of the rope out. It would be best to realize that when you use a smaller circle, your horse’s legs will find it hard.
If you begin walking in the center of the ring, your horse’s circle will have to adjust to the shape you establish. And if it can’t make a proportional circle due to its changing shape, the horse won’t engage and get the round shape you need.
Horses have a weak side, just like human beings, and it manifests as a stiff side. Even though you may be tempted to use this side more, ensure you avoid it. Lunging needs to be accomplished evenly on each side to have a supportive muscle that creates elasticity and balance.
Check to ensure the lunge line is not twisted as it will allow you to have clear communication. When you hold the line with both of your hands, you will be able to feed and collect the lunge line as required. Avoid wrapping the extra line around your hand while you lunge a horse. In the event of the horse bolting or spooking, your hands may get stuck, and you’ll end up being dragged.
You should lunge a horse for fifteen or twenty minutes. This amount of time can be helpful if you lunge once a week to make your horse fit and strong. If you go past this duration, its joints may strain. Ensure you walk on either side for the first five minutes to let your horse stretch and unwind.
Consider maintaining an active walk, though not a rushed one. Also, encourage it to utilize the topline more often. For the next ten minutes, you can choose a pace based on the training objective and whether the horse benefits from moving into canter or trot after a walk.
You can then take ten to fifteen minutes for a more advanced workout after it loosens up. Be cautious, so you don’t tighten the lunging aids excessively since you don’t want to tie its head down. All you can do is concentrate on encouraging your horse to engage his back and operate on the topline.
You can take off the lunging aids and then take a few minutes for your horse to stretch and relax when you finish. This can be through a short stretchy trot and walking for the remaining time. Ensure you do this until his heartbeat slows down and the body temperature returns to normal.
As you can see, you can easily lunge a horse. Lunging has many advantages for both the horse and rider since they all get to engage their bodies. Ensure you do everything correctly and consistently for the required time. Also, exercise patience as you proceed with the training if you want to be more productive.
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]]>How Much Hay Does a Horse Eat? Read More »
The post How Much Hay Does a Horse Eat? appeared first on .
]]>Grass and hay are two of the most popular foods for horses. When horses eat grass, you must monitor their condition to ensure that they are not consuming too much or too little. Sadly, this is because overeating can also cause a horse to become obese. Lack of hay might also cause a horse’s weight loss. So, how much hay does a horse eat? First off, let’s answer a few background questions, if you will.
Horses are conditioned to eat roughage. Their digestive systems are built to use the nourishment found in stalks of grass. A horse should consume roughage that amounts to a percent or two of their total body weight every day. There is no better source of roughage for horses than hay.
Many trail horses do not require grain; instead, they thrive on high-quality hay or pasture. If hay isn’t enough, grain can be given, but roughage should always provide most of a horse’s calories.
On the other hand, horses that spend most of their time in stalls and do not graze so frequently can recreate their natural feeding patterns. This can be achieved by having hay in front of them for most of the day. They can nibble on it for a while, take a breather and rest for a bit, and then return to it, ensuring that roughage is constantly going through their bodies.
There are specific rules that one must obey when feeding a horse hay.
It would help if you made carefully planned, incremental adjustments whenever you have to alter your horse’s ration size or feed type. If you’re changing the feed quantity, make minor adjustments to each meal at a time, gradually increasing or decreasing the serving over several weeks. A popular way of altering the feed type is by replacing 25% of the existing food type with its substitute daily. By doing so, you ensure that the horse eventually eats 100 percent of the new food after six days of feeding.
Begin by weighing your horse‘s feed on a postal or kitchen scale or at your local feed store. As long as you know how much your horse‘s normal ration weighs, you can measure it with a scoop, a coffee can, or any other item of your choosing.
Horses that rely on hay as their sole source of nutrition eat between fifteen and twenty pounds of hay daily. Flakes are the most common method of dispensing hay; however, a flake’s hay content can vary substantially depending on the flake’s size and type of hay.
Use a bathroom scale to weigh the bales of hay you’re feeding your horse, and then only provide it the fraction of the bale that it actually requires. It should be around 60 pounds or 23 kilograms. The bales will be too lengthy and densely packed if the hay is too wet.
You can now calculate the approximate number of flakes you should feed your horse daily. So, for a flake weighing four pounds, you’ll need to provide your 1000-pound horse with five flakes daily. Keep in mind to feed as many small portions as possible.
Ponies have a slower metabolism than horses. That is why they require a lower percentage of their body weight in hay unless they are hard workers—a rarity in today’s ponies. Small ponies may only need a couple of flakes per day to stay healthy.
However, some draft horses, particularly those that work hard, will require far more hay than the standard ratio. Therefore, it is critical to regularly monitor your horse’s condition and make adjustments based on the weather, how hard the horses are working, their age, the hay’s richness, and their general health.
Horses thrive on routine, possessing incredibly accurate internal clocks that help them keep better time than their human caregivers. Therefore, follow a consistent schedule when feeding horses.
Abrupt schedule changes are harmless to most horses. However, horses prone to colic find sudden alterations in routine more than an annoyance but a trigger for a colic episode.
Hay is a necessary food item for horses. Your horse will get their daily fiber intake from this and have a fulfilling meal. However, it would be best if you kept an eye on how much hay you’re feeding your horse. If you give them their daily hay in a proper and adequate measurement, your horse will be safe from over intaking of fiber and other related health issues.
We recommend you keep a record of all the meals your horse takes and make weekly adjustments accordingly.
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]]>Are Horses Color Blind? [know Horses Vision] Read More »
The post Are Horses Color Blind? [know Horses Vision] appeared first on .
]]>Vision is vital in horses as they need it to engage in activities like navigating jumps and carrying people to and from various destinations. Even though they aren’t color blind, we need to understand some facts connected to their vision. For instance, the colors they can see and those they can’t, how they see color, and how their vision looks. Let’s go through all the facts you need to understand about your horse.
The truth is horses aren’t color blind. This is because they have a dichromatic type of vision. This essentially means that their eyes possess just two categories of cone cells. This is unlike humans who have trichromatic vision.
Therefore, horses can detect some hues like green and blue well. However, they cannot recognize red. As for us, our vision enables us to differentiate shades that are in a wavelength of three. And this is not the same case for horses. They can only distinguish shades in regions of two wavelengths. Thus, horses cannot distinguish red color just like individuals who are color blind.
A horse can see yellow and blue colors. However, they do not recognize vibrant hues like orange and red. And since horses have two kinds of cone cells in their eyes, they possess a dichromatic color vision. This is unlike the primates and human beings, who usually have three cones.
Keep in mind that this is what provides human beings with a trichromatic vision. Therefore, we can identify yellow, green, blue, and red shades. We can also see a lot of intermediate colors between the primary tones. However, as for the horses, they are not likely to see an intermediate color.
A horse’s vision is unique. It is almost the same as that of a colorblind human being. According to research, a horse always finds it difficult to distinguish green and brown backgrounds. For instance, people who are red deficient cannot see a reddish-purple shade. Moreover, they cannot identify red in a grey-colored environment. This indicates that these results are in line with those conducted on individuals with both red and green shade deficiencies.
However, a horse can recognize yellow-green dots which are on a grey-dotted setting. This leads to the conclusion that a horse is not blue shade deficient. The animal can see stuff just like individuals who are deficient in red-green color. Besides, red, orange, yellow, and green possibly seem similar to a horse. This does not imply they are limited when it comes to vision. A horse may be using visual hints like brightness, depth, and shade variation to see color well.
Horses can only detect two wavelengths of visible light since they are dichromatic. For this reason, they have restricted color vision. Studies indicate that a horse can recognize shades the same way as persons who cannot see red-green color.
Since horses have two types of cone cells in the retina, they do have a limited shade recognition than human beings. This means they can detect a few hues. Besides, they can see both blue and yellow well. Reports also state that they can see green, yellow, and blue from gray but not red.
This is a sign of the horses having difficulty differentiating red from green. Hence, the same case as individuals who encounter tone blindness with the green and red colors. The horses can react to hues, though not as humans do. They can only detect shades at a shorter frequency, meaning their color vision is weaker than ours.
Colors that attract horses more are lighter tones and blue shades. In a study, six buckets full of water were used to examine if horses get drawn to some shades. The color varied from red, yellow, green, light green, turquoise, and light blue. They were then examined for more than fifteen years.
The Haflingers and Thoroughbreds visited the buckets in a paddock for seven hours during this time. The buckets were then swapped every day to prevent the horses from remaining in the same place. The researchers realized that horses loved turquoise pails extensively, followed by the remaining lighter shaded buckets. What does this imply? Light colors, particularly, turquoise attract horses more than all other colors.
Even though horses are popularly known for having intimidating posture and size, they are generally afraid of some colors. Researchers found out that horses react negatively to shades like blue, black, white, and yellow.
As for gray, red, brown, and green, they don’t frighten the horses. However, they react a little bit when the shades are on walls as opposed to the floors.
Therefore, if you plan to redecorate and paint the walls with a distinct shade, consider choosing keenly. Study the ones they prefer and those they are more afraid of. Keep in mind that when you use the wrong hue in their surroundings, it will disrupt their management and training. Additionally, it may be dangerous whenever you handle or ride your horse.
You may also not be sure of how yours may behave. Thus, you need to avoid adding shades that can scare them. If you have never thought of how hues may affect your horse’s attitude, you need to take note of that. Moreover, it’s not only your barn or stall’s interior that affects your horse. Even when outside, they can be easily disturbed by bright fluorescent shades.
Horses are luckier with night vision than human beings who cannot see well in a dark room. This usually happens as we move from a place with too much light to a darker one. Moreover, our eyes need time to adjust, and after some time, they eventually do. This does not imply we are better since we cannot do things in the dark.
On the other hand, horses can see adequately in darker spaces due to tapetum lucidum. This is a natural light intensifying layer. It is found in their eyes and can reflect light on the retina to enhance their vision, even in the dark. Another exciting thing about them is, they also have enormous eyes compared to other organisms in the animals’ kingdom.
Breeds with a better and persistent vision are mainly those with a flatter and straight nose, just as Thoroughbreds. They are also horses with roman noses like Standardbreds and those with outward curved noses. The ones with dished faces as Arabian do have a terrible vision which starts deteriorating fast as time passes. This is why Arabian crossfires are a bit reluctant when in contact with darker materials like asphalt.
A horse has the best vision when younger. To be more precise, the best age is always seven years. At this time, their eyes are completely developed and have not yet started deteriorating in age. As for the old ones, they begin losing vision. The more they grow, the more their vision gets blurry.
Horses are not color blind, though; their notable shade spectrum is more restricted than other animals and human beings. There are also colors which they love, and it would be better if you painted everything around using those tones. And the next time you give your horse water, ensure you use buckets they are comfortable around.
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]]>Can Horses Eat Strawberries? Read More »
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]]>Strawberries are healthy and will not harm the digestive system of a horse. However, strawberries are small in size. Some horses are sensitive and can choke easily. Hence, when feeding your horse any fruit or treat, it’s best to give it to them in smaller chunks. By cutting fruits into small pieces, you can prevent your horse from choking.
Strawberries are juicy, sweet, and delicious. While all fruits are healthy, strawberries are especially beneficial. They contain 91% water, making them a great fruit to have around the summer. Furthermore, they have minerals and vitamins that are nutritionally good for a horse. For example, strawberries contain vitamin C and vitamin E.
These nutrients in a strawberry help maintain your horse’s health. Besides that, strawberries also keep them happy and hydrated. The fruit is low in carbs and calories and has high water content.
Horses love to eat strawberries. You would think that there would come the point where a horse would refuse any more treats once it’s full. However, that’s not necessarily the case. Horses will probably take all of the strawberries you can offer them. That’s why it’s your duty to look after how much your horse eats. Feeding your horse two to three strawberries at a time is okay. You can always save the rest of them for later.
As mentioned above, be mindful of the choking risks. The bigger a piece of strawberry, the higher the chance of choking. Offer strawberries to your horse in small pieces that they’ll be able to chew and swallow easily.
Horses love fruits and vegetables. They can eat apples, carrots, pears, oranges, grapes, bananas, mango, and many more. Certain fruits and vegetables should be avoided, however. For example, you should avoid feeding your horse potatoes, avocados, and cabbage. These can harm your horse’s metabolism and disturb its appetite.
That said, every horse has a different reaction to different foods. Feed your horse according to its needs and limitations. As for other horses you aren’t familiar with, avoid experimenting with their diet. Doing so could put their health at risk.
A horse is not just a four-legged animal in the stable. They’re also your friend and companion. Keeping your horse happy is your obligation as a horse owner. To keep them happy, you can offer them delicious fruits as a treat.
So, can horses eat strawberries? Absolutely! In fact, they enjoy them. Strawberries are a healthy fruit full of beneficial nutrition. However, ensure that you feed your horse strawberries in limited amounts. Keep them healthy and neighing happily!
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]]>How Many Horses Should You Have Per Acre: Detailed Guide Read More »
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]]>This recommended acreage does not take into consideration municipal zoning laws, federal stormwater rules, management methods, horse usage, as well as the terrain’s capacity to maintain each horse. Running a horse farm or facility is a lot of labor, and you shouldn’t get into it without some prior experience.
While it is true that horses can live practically anywhere on a small amount of land, there are several drawbacks to a minimal approach. To retain your horse on limited land, you will have to consider these difficulties.
Overgrazing may be the biggest challenge when you have a small amount of land to work with. Your horses won’t get the most out of their pasture time if there isn’t enough room for them to graze. As a result, it’s usually preferable to give your horses more space rather than try to squeeze them into a small area.
Unlike the other considerations we discuss, this issue does have a short-term solution in a pinch. You can always feed your horses hay and grain if your pasture isn’t growing enough grass. They are a good substitute for fresh grass in terms of nutritional content.
Manure piles are a unique source of problems for equestrians of any level of expertise. In addition to being a nuisance for you and your neighbors, a massive mound of manure on a tiny area of land may serve as a breeding ground for parasites, flies, and other pests. Your manure pile may also be washed away by rain, contaminating your land. Keeping your manure pile away from the parts of your farm you use daily is much easier with more acreage.
Another typical annoyance for horse owners is mud pools. There are fewer possibilities to avoid mud puddles on smaller land.
Last but not least, if you keep your horses on a small plot of land, they will have less opportunity to get exercise. Horses are unable to exercise freely in a limited turnout space. As a result, you’ll need to set aside extra time each day for productive pursuits and ways for them to stay fit.
The land’s carrying capacity for horses has long been a source of contention among equestrians and horse owners. While horses thrive on large acreage, many horses can survive with less land. Horses are often kept on tiny plots of land, with little reliance on the ground for food.
When estimating land capacity, it’s a decent rule of thumb to use 1 1/2 to 2 acres of open, intensively maintained land for each horse. 210 feet by 210 feet is how much an acre measures in square footage. Two acres of well-managed pasture or hayland should be plenty for a small herd. However, this varies significantly from region to region.
As previously said, most equestrians advocate a minimum of one to two acres of property for your first horse. They advocate adding one extra acre to your space for each new horse. However, this quantity of acreage may not be essential for smaller horses. While you may dream of owning a vast farm covering hundreds of acres, you may effectively maintain your horse on less land with careful management and control.
Another technique to determine the number of horses you may have on your property is to assume 1,000 pounds of horses for two to three acres of land. This will provide for enough grazing, turnouts, and land management.
However, these standards vary significantly by region. In the southern part of the US, if the pasture is adequately maintained and watered, two to ten acres may provide a horse’s feed demands.
The grazing requirements may be met on 2-10 acres of well-managed and irrigated pasture in the West of the United States. You may need up to 30 to 38 acres per horse to satisfy its overall fodder requirements in non-irrigated dryland pastures.
It’s not enough to just have acreage for your horses. Keeping the area green and fruitful to satisfy your horses’ needs will require a lot of time and effort on your part. The grass will die with too much livestock on the land and turn into an uninhabitable swamp. By preventing the earth from adequately absorbing and draining, too many weeds may lead to polluted water discharge. As a result of accumulated manure, there may be less grazing space and a decrease in overall land quality. Every day, a lot of pre-planning is necessary to avoid these problems.
Equestrians have worked to better understand the land demands of horses due to acreage restrictions. There are a few elements to consider when figuring out how much acreage you’ll need for a horse farm or boarding stable, regardless of your goals. Among which are the following:
All horse breeds aren’t created equal, as you know well. Certain horse breeds do well in small pastures, but others need more room to stay healthy. The specific needs of your horse breed should be taken into consideration while searching for a new home. On the other hand, if you plan on boarding horses, you should overestimate how much land you need for each horse.
If you’re an equestrian, you already know that horses have a wide range of demands. Consider this while deciding how much land you’ll need for your horse’s grazing. What will be done with the land? Is the ground going to be the primary source of feed for your horse, or is it just additional space for grazing? Do you intend to engage in daily physical activity in a structured manner, or are you counting on turnouts? These questions will help you determine the suitable acreage for your horses. For your horse to get proper nutrients from the soil, you must give it a sufficient amount of space. If, on the other hand, the area is to be used mainly for exercise, the size of the space is less significant than the layout.
In several parts of the nation, there are zoning laws and restrictions on how near horses may be kept to other houses or water sources. You should do your homework on these zoning regulations since they might increase the amount of property you need.
Certain lands may be more adequate to maintain horses than others due to their condition. When figuring out how many horses your property can sustain, it’s critical to consider the quality of your soil. Additional area for your horses may be necessary if your soil is less productive or of lower quality.
If you only have limited land or you are willing to keep your horses on limited acreage, there are a few tips that could help you along the process.
Firstly, regularly testing and fertilizing your pastures is an excellent approach to prevent overgrazing. This will improve soil quality, enabling the field to flourish. You may also rotate your pastures using temporary fences.
A fantastic technique to deal with enormous amounts of manure while simultaneously providing your pastures with natural fertilizer is to compost it. Make sure your manure pile is twice as long at the base as it is tall to decompose it properly. Composting manure in this way is more effective since it reaches the appropriate temperature. However, you’ll have to put in a little more work if you want to start composting. For massive dung heaps on small plots, this is the most efficient and successful management method.
There are many creative ways to implement turnouts with temporary fencing, as we previously highlighted. Use your paddock to build a running track for horses. Place feed and water stations at regular intervals along the way to encourage your horses to work through it.
Regular turnouts aren’t enough if you have to confine your horses to a small area; you’ll also need to emphasize deliberate exercise. To guarantee your horse’s health and well-being, you may want to try several different activities, including riding.
We know that horses may flourish on smaller areas of ground than the standard one to two acres. Horses may survive on a small amount of land if their owners are willing to think outside the box and develop innovative solutions. As a result, if you’re planning to open a boarding facility or stable, it’s ideal to have more land than you need.
You should also check local zoning statutes and restrictions in your location to be sure you’re not breaking any laws. Doing so will save you a lot of time and aggravation in the long run.
And last, as a horse owner, you have a responsibility to provide your animals with the best possible living conditions. Keeping your horse outside your back door may seem perfect, but it may not be the best setting for them to flourish in. If you’re unsure if your property is suitable for your horse, get a second assessment from an experienced equestrian. Your horse will be happy and healthy if they have enough room to graze and exercise.
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]]>Diet Guide: Can Horses Eat Pumpkin? Read More »
The post Diet Guide: Can Horses Eat Pumpkin? appeared first on .
]]>Don’t fret. Your horse can and should eat pumpkin. Read ahead and find out just how good pumpkins are for your horse. There are loads of health benefits that you will find intriguing.
Pumpkins are a sweet treat for horses. They have a nutritional profile that is harmless to horses. They consist of 90% water and are an excellent way to offer hydration. Do not feed horses decorated pumpkins, the ones that are tossed away after Halloween. Additionally, give your horse fresh pumpkins instead.
Horses love pumpkin flesh. It is sweet but low in sugar. Also, the flesh does not contain fats or carbs that might harm your horse.
Do not worry about peeling the rind when feeding your horse. Horses have strong mouths and can comfortably chew the skin and enjoy it. Moreover, thoroughly wash the rind before feeding your horse. You don’t want your horse to ingest pesticides, dirt, and other germs.
Not all fruit and vegetable seeds are safe for your horse’s consumption, but pumpkin seeds are an exception. The seeds contain nutrients beneficial to your horse. However, pumpkin stalks are a choking hazard. Ensure you remove them before feeding your horse.
Orange pumpkins are the best type for feeding. You can also give them butternut pumpkins, otherwise known as butternut squash. Plus, they are as delicious to horses as they are to humans.
Inspect your pumpkin before feeding your horse. Check for mold or any signs of rot. Wash the pumpkin thoroughly and slice it in half. Also, inspect the inside and scoop out any soggy or incredibly soft flesh. If you wish, you can leave the seeds intact.
However, do not feed the pumpkin as it is. Cut it into small pieces to avoid choking hazards. Do not overwhelm your horse with large amounts of pumpkin at one go.
You can leave the seeds raw with other pieces while feeding your horse. If you wish to give the seeds separately, you can take the extra step and toast them. Just remember not to add any salt or spice to the seeds. While it may seem a harmless idea, it isn’t good for your horse.
You can make your horse tasty but healthy treats. The best are pumpkin muffins, pies, and cookies loaded with supplements like oats and fruits. Horses enjoy ‘cheat days’ too! If you are a creative horse keeper, use that creativity in your pumpkin recipes.
Remember the no salt, no spice rule as you get innovative with your pastry. Your horse also does not need additional sugar. Do not add any sugar or icing to add to the taste.
You can also include chopped fruit like apples or bananas in the chopped pumpkin for your horse. A healthy horse fruit salad, why not? Horses can also eat pumpkin puree. First, bake it. Then, mash it. Lastly, add water to your preferred consistency. You can also add a mare’s milk to the mashed pumpkin to feed a foal.
Are you wondering whether your horse can eat canned pumpkins? The answer is yes. Horses can eat organic, store-bought pumpkins. Carefully check the ingredients to ensure they don’t contain chemicals, additives, or preservatives.
Pumpkins have health benefits like vitamin A for eye, bone, cell, and reproductive health. They have a high level of potassium which is a horse energizer—other minerals like calcium and phosphorus boost your horse’s performance.
Pumpkins have fiber that promotes your horse’s digestive health. On the other hand, high water levels also keep your horse hydrated.
Pumpkins are an essential horse diet addition. It supplements the regular hay and greens that constitute your typical horse’s diet. If you plan to add this yummy snack to your horses’ food intake, you can do so once or twice a day.
As you consider introducing pumpkin to your horse’s diet, take it one step at a time. Your horse will need to get used to this new meal. Too much of it may cause digestive disturbances, so proceed in moderation.
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